cableTVamps.com
Cable TV Amplifier
Common Questions and Answers

Q. Who is CABLETVAMPS, and why should I buy from you?
A. Cabletvamps is THE pioneer of retail sales when it comes to Electroline products. We have been selling Electroline products and providing helpful advice to customers for over 5 years on eBay, long before anyone else. We deal directly with Electroline - so you can be assured that the products we sell are AUTHENTIC Electroline product. All products that we sell are fully covered by Electroline's industry leading 10-year warranty.

Q. Are Cable Amplifiers legal? Will I get into trouble if I install one?
A. Cable amplifiers are 100% legal. The cable company cannot cause you any problems if they find out you have installed an amplifier. Cable Amplifiers are not "black boxes" that allow you to descramble or steal cable TV.  Cable companies tend to be particular about the models of cable amplifiers they will "support". Electroline is one of the most highly regarded amplifiers in the business. PDI is also used by many cable companies.

Q. What accessories are included with your amplifier purchase?
A. Auction listings vary. ALL amplifiers come with an appropriate power supply. All of our current multi-port (not closeout or special purchase) items include at least one terminator and a power cable. Closeout items, due to their inherent value do not include these extras. Power cables and terminators are available in our ebay store. Please read below for more information on the proper use of terminators.

Q. What are the "suggested retail prices" of Electroline Cable Amplifiers?
A. There is no such thing as a "suggested retail price" for Electroline, PDI, Scientific Atlanta, Viewsonics, Maspro, or any other amplifier manufacturer EXCEPT Motorola. Motorola is the only company which sells one product (1-port, $99) through retail chains like Best Buy. Therefore there is no "suggested retail price", except whatever the seller makes up on their own. Any person or company selling these products with a "suggested retail price" is simply lying to you to try to get you to pay more, or to make you think that they are legitimate. Electroline does not sell to the general public, but has set "dealer pricing" which is usually much higher than the prices some other sellers charge for these items. The only way you get brand new Electroline product below "dealer pricing" is to buy stolen merchandise - plain and simple. Anyone who tells you that they buy these products from "fleet sales" or "companies going out of business" is giving you a big line of garbage, because Electroline amplifiers are in high demand by the cable companies who purchase them. They do not throw them away or liquidate them. However, these products are often stolen from cable company inventories and warehouses.

Q. How come you can't cut me a better deal?
A. All cableTVamps merchandise is purchased direct from the factory, and provided to you at substantial savings from cable company prices. High quality cable TV amplifiers (made by Electroline) are not cheap. Anyone selling Electroline amplifiers at substantially lower prices is not obtaining these products from the manufacturer. It is as simple as that. cableTVamps provides full factory warranty, which other sellers cannot provide. We stand behind our products. Electroline is the best in the business. On occasion we may provide lower pricing for larger quantity deals, but we can never sell for less than our dealer cost.

Q. Why shouldn't I buy an Electroline amplifier from some other eBay seller? They are much cheaper!
A. Yes, they may be CHEAPER. In most cases this equipment is not obtained from the manufacturer, but obtained through other means.  If you do not purchase your Electroline amplifier from us, chances are very good that you will not get any support or warranty service if/when you need it.
Although other brands of amplifiers may provide similar functionality, many of them are made overseas using cheaper components and manufacturing facilities. Electroline is one of only a few cable equipment suppliers to operate an ISO 9001 manufacturing facility in Canada. Recently Electroline opened a second ISO 9001 manufacturing facility in Malaysia. The quality of their equipment is second to none. The result is that Electroline products provide the CLEANEST, STRONGEST signal of any manufacturer. They also carry the ONLY 10-year warranty in the industry. What about the other guys? 90 days, maybe a 1 year warranty? Electroline is the "industry standard" for providing clean signal amplification. Why settle for less? Why spend a few bucks less on a lower quality amplifier made in a cheap Chinese manufacturing facility, with NO WARRANTY? Spend a few bucks more and get peace of mind. 

Q. How do I know if someone is selling stolen cable company equipment?
     (Note - this applies to virtually ALL cable amplifier equipment)
A. There are some ways to get a good idea of where the equipment came from.
FIRST, all amplifier equipment that has come from cable company inventory includes a "power inserter" (see next question), which is a small thing that looks like a splitter. This power inserter is an "extra $ charge" option, so the cable companies actually pay a bit extra for every amplifier to include the option. 99% of the people who buy "retail" do not need the power inserter option, and so there is no need to include it - because it just costs more. If the seller is including a power inserter at their "low price", the equipment likely came from a cable company warehouse.
SECOND, if the price is a lot lower than the prevailing market price, the gear is likely stolen. Low Buy-It-Now prices are always flags for people who get a five-finger discount on their amplifier purchases. No one who is dealing with stolen equipment wants to get caught, so they are more willing to sell at a low price to move merchandise quickly.
THIRD, if the seller requires "immediate payment", does not take Paypal credit card transfers, or is "cash only", you have probably hit the jackpot. People selling questionable equipment want cash, and they want it fast.
FOURTH, ASK QUESTIONS. Any legitimate seller will have a good explanation for why they can sell equipment at ridiculously low prices. We asked one guy where he purchased his amplifiers from, since he obviously had a price advantage over us. His answer was "I have a source" and "I can get more". There was not even a mention of purchasing from the manufacturer.
Lastly, follow your instincts. If you suspect it is stolen equipment, you are probably correct more often than not.

Q. What is that thing that looks like a splitter - that comes with amplifiers sold by other sellers? Do I need it?
A. The "splitter thing" is called a power inserter. Cable companies always use them because they do not expect that a power outlet will be near the amplifier installation point. This is mainly because if the cable company installs an amplifier, they will install it in an enclosure OUTSIDE your home. This is not normally necessary, but the cable company likes to keep as much stuff outside your home as possible so that service calls are easier. The power inserter provides a way for the cable company to run power back to the amplifier from somewhere inside your home. If a power inserter is not properly installed, it could do damage to equipment connected to your cable line.
cableTVamps does not include power inserters with your purchases. Instead we believe that "direct powering" is a much safer way to install an amplifier power connection. The amplifier is directly connected to the power supply by a short cable. We provide this cable with most purchases (check your auction for specifics) so that you can be up and running without having to run out to the local electronics store for another cable.

Q. Why do some Electroline amplifiers have red labels, while some have blue labels? 
A. Before Electroline incorporated a higher standard for surge protection and some other features they had a blue label on all of their products. All of the newer, enhanced products come with the red label. The blue label indicates that the amp is an older "5-year warranty" model without the extra features and surge protection. All red label amplifiers also come with a 10-year warranty, as long as you purchase them from authorized reseller like cableTVamps. We regularly provide warranty service to our customers for the products we sell - that is an investment protection for you! If you buy from another seller and have a failure, you might as well have thrown away your hard earned money.

Q. Why is the first port on every amplifier marked "OUT+PWR"?
     Does the amplifier put 12 volts out on the cable line? 
A. Relax - this port has a special function, but only to provide power input TO the amplifier. Under normal conditions there is never any current flowing out of the amplifier from any of the ports. The special port is used in conjunction with a power inserter, which was described in one of the questions above. If you are using direct powering (connecting the amplifier directly to the power supply, you do not need to be concerned about it. If you think you need to use the power inserter, you should be very careful and cionsult the manufacturer's instructions before doing so.

Q. Why do all of the amplifiers have different dB numbers? Don't I always want higher numbers on the amplifier?
     Do more ports mean more power?
A. These are all valid questions, and we are the only sellers on eBay who can actually explain WHY the numbers are different. Other sellers out there claiming to have "28dBs of gain" for a 4-port amplifier are simply uneducated - and know nothing about cable TV installation.
FIRST - ALL "Drop Amplifiers" as they are called use the same basic amplifier design, although different manufacturers have differing levels of quality in the products they use. The basic design for cable TV amplifiers is a +15dB amplifier. What the amplifier manufacturer does with the base design after that is what makes the difference in the numbers that you see. Manufacturers build multi-port amplifiers because building the splitter into the amplifier makes the signal CLEANER, since everything is done inside of the amplifier housing. Every connection added outside of the amplifier adds more noise (garbage) to your picture.
A 1-port amplifier is +15dB, as you would expect based on what we explained above. What about multiple ports? How are those number figured out? A 2-port amplifier comes in at +11dB, a 4-port comes in at +7dB, and an 8-port comes in at around +3dB or +4dB. Why? It is simple. If you take a one port amplifier, and connect a 2-way splitter to the output side, the splitter degrades the signal a bit (kind of like using a "T" connection for plumbing - the same concept). So instead of getting +15dB, you are now getting +11dB out of each of the 2 ports. The same would apply if you took your 1-port amplifier and connected an 8-way splitter to the output to connect 8 TVs. The amplifier puts out +15dB, but the splitter degrades the signal by 11dB (sometimes more, sometimes less). What you end up with is +15db (amplifier) -11dB (splitter) = +4dB. Isn't that the EXACT same number you see on the 8-port amplifiers? Of course it is.
The bottom line here is that what really matters is the number of TVs or other devices you are connecting, NOT the output number of the amplifier. Look at the chart below. The chart shows that a 1-port amplifier with a splitter attached to it has the SAME output number as the multi-port amplifier with the same number of ports.

Q. What is a terminator? Why do I need to use them?
A. A terminator is a small cap with a resistor built into it. It is made to be connected to unused amplifier ports, splitter ports, or cable TV outlets in your home. Placing one of these on an empty connection makes the connection act like there is a TV or other piece of equipment connected to it. Why do you need them? Unterminated connections can cause ghosting and other picture problems. They cause the signal to leak out of the cable (or leak IN). The manufacturers of cable amplifiers always recommend that you terminate unused ports - and that is why we usually include some terminators with an amplifier purchase. Unterminated ports can also cause an unexpected visit from the cable company. Read the next section for more information.

Q. A month after installation, I got a visit from my cable company. They wanted me to turn off my amplifier.
     What did I do wrong?
A. First of all, RELAX. There is nothing illegal or improper about what you have done. However, when you pump up the signal strength in your home, You increase the "pressure" on your home cabling system. The cable company might become aware of this because the signal level is considerably higher than it was previously. Occasionally the installation of an amplifier will trigger a visit to your home by the local cable company. Usually this is caused by increased "signal leakage" which is caused when you boost your cable signal. Think of it as increasing the pressure in a water pipe. If there is a small hole, it will get more obvious as you increase the water pressure. The same principle applies here. Cable companies are required to measure "open air" signals which indicate cable signal leakage. As they drive through your neighborhood they may detect leakage from your home and stop in for a visit. This will RARELY happen if you follow the manufacturer's instructions, and the suggestions we provide in our information pages:

1.  If you have unused cable outlets connected to the amplifier make sure they are terminated. This is why cableTVamps provides terminators for free with most amplifier purchases. Most signal leakage problems are caused by unterminated connections which act like antennas. They broadcast the cable signal out into the open air. The cable company is required by law to detect these signals and keep them within government regulations. If you cap unused amplifier ports and cable outlets, you virtually eliminate any signal leakage caused by them.
2.  Use high quality cables and connectors - they make a difference. Low quality (cheap) cables cannot hold the signal in as well as good quality dual or quad shielded cable. Think of it in terms of using plastic pipe versus steel pipe. The steel pipe (well shielded cable) can hold back the pressure a lot better than plastic pipe can, and won't break nearly as easily. Never use cheap "screw-on" connectors, or any other cable connector that does not give a good, positive connection. Cheap connectors are like bad pipe fittings - they will eventually cause you problems. If you use high quality cabling and connectors you should not have any leakage problems.

Q. I have a bunch of TVs and a cable modem. Do I need to buy more than one amplifier?
A. Generally, NO. There are specific circumstances where you may need to purchase multiple amplifiers. Most homes do not need more than one amplifier to fix cable reception problems. In the rare situation where you think you may need more than one amplifier, please ask for help before purchasing. In general it is better to err on the side of LESS amplification than more amplification.

Q. I need to amplify an HDTV signal. Do I need a different amplifier?
A. NO. All of the amplifiers we sell are fully compatible with the HDTV signal, and will boost the HDTV frequencies. Even so, that does not guarantee a good HDTV picture. The antenna or cable provider you have needs to provide at least a halfway decent signal in order for your amplifier to keep it from degrading. We have many satisfied customers who have used our products with HDTV.

Q. Can I use your products with my satellite system?
A. NO. All of the amplifiers we sell are fully compatible with North American 1GHz cable TV system standards. Satellite operates at 2GHz in a very different manner. If you need to boost a satellite signal, you need a 2GHz satellite amplifier. Also - a satellite (2GHz) amplifier will NOT work with your cable system. They are totally different.

Q. I need to mount the amplifier outside. Is it safe to do this?
A. According to the manufacturer, the amplifiers can be mounted indoors or outdoors. When mounted outdoors, the connections need to be protected so that moisture is kept out. cableTVamps sells these in enclosures in our eBay store. Proper mounting inside an approved enclosure will insure proper operation of the amplifier for many years. Indoors or outdoors, the amplifier should be properly grounded. The amplifier comes with instructions for grounding. Check with your municipality to determine the proper regulations regarding grounding.

Q. I need to mount the amplifier in the attic. Can it take the heat?
A. Yes. The manufacturer states that the amplifier can run within -40 to +60 degrees Celsius (-40 to +140 degrees Fahrenheit). This means that it can take most attic temperatures.

Choosing the right amplifier

To get the most out of your cable amplifier, you need to make the correct choice up front. Here are some things to think about.

If you have a cable modem and it is working properly... best to LEAVE IT ALONE. Do not connect a cable modem to an amplifier with the expectation that you are going to get faster cable modem speeds. In many cases it can help the speed and reliability of your cable modem. However if you are not having any problems it is better to leave the cable modem connected AS IS. In most situations you can connect a cable modem to a 1, 2, or 4 port (passive return) amplifier with no problem. 8 port passive return amplifiers are generally not recommended for these situations. You can use the ACTIVE RETURN model (PDI) in both 4 and 8 port versions when a cable modem is involved.

If you don't have a cable modem, then you can choose any of the amplifiers we sell. The only questions you need to ask yourself in this situation are as follows:

Do I care about a warranty? Warranties come with all of the NEWER model amplifiers we sell. The older EDA-1G, EDA-2G, EDA-4G, and EDA-8G are discontinued models and therefore to not carry more than a 30-day exchange warranty.

Am I concerned about future compatibility? If so, then it would be best to go with one of the current models. The new models provide compatibility with all current and future cable standards. The big difference is that they provide a RETURN PATH, which allows for 2-way cable company communications with your equipment. This 2-way communication is essential for future compatibility. The current model amplifiers are: EDA-2100, EDA-2200, EDA-2400, EDA-2800, EDA-EQ3100, EDA-UG2402, EDA-UG2802, EDA-FT08000, and PDI 4&8 port models.

Do I just need a GREAT amplifier at the cheapest price? if you are very price-conscious and are looking for the best value in a standard cable TV amplifier, then your best "bang for the buck" is in one of our Electroline Standard "G" model 1GHz amplifiers. These provide great noise free amplification of your signal while still costing less than $20.

Pick the statement that best describes your situation:

I have a cable modem, and it works just fine. I want the least expensive solution to improving my TV picture.

I have a cable modem, and it works fine. I want the best solution, compatible with future cable technologies. My cable modem is connected via a dedicated line installed by the cable company.

I have a cable modem - but it is slow, unreliable, or frequently loses sync. 

I need to run a cable that is longer than 150'.

I do not have a cable modem. I have one or more Digital Cable Converter boxes installed in my home.

I do not have a cable modem. I do not have Digital Cable.

SETUP #1 

I have a cable modem, and it works just fine. I want the cheapest solution to improving my TV picture.

If your cable modem is operating properly, you don't want to mess with it. The best way to deal with this type of situation is to install a two-way splitter at the cable source. One leg of the splitter should run directly to your cable modem. The other leg of the splitter should be connected to the amplifier of your choice. Which amplifier? Choose the amplifier that most closely matches the number of cables you need to connect. If you have 3-4 cables, choose a 4-port. If you have 5 or more cables, go with an 8-port.

Digital Compatible amplifiers: ALL VALUE!!! USE ONE OF THE FOLLOWING AMPLIFIERS FOR THE BEST "BANG FOR THE BUCK": EDA-1G, EDA-2G, EDA-4G, EDA-8G

SETUP #2

I have a cable modem, and it works fine. I want the best solution compatible with future cable technologies. My cable modem is connected via a dedicated line installed by the cable company.

If your cable modem is operating properly, you don't want to mess with it. The best way to deal with this type of situation is to leave the cable modem AS IS. The cable company likely installed a 2-way splitter to accommodate the cable modem. One leg of the splitter runs directly to your cable modem. The other leg of the splitter should be connected to the amplifier of your choice. Which amplifier? If you want an amplifier compatible with future cable technology, then you need a newer model Electroline or PDI amplifier. These amplifiers are designed to accommodate cable signals for years to come. Choose the amplifier that most closely matches the number of cables you need to connect. If you have 3-4 cables, choose a 4-port. If you have 5 or more cables, go with an 8-port. 

Compatible amplifiers:  EDA-2100, EDA-2200, EDA-2400, EDA-2800, EDA-FlatTop, Electroline "Active Return Path" , PDI "Active Return Path" 4 or 8-port.

 

SETUP #3

I have a cable modem - but it is slow, unreliable, or frequently loses sync. 
(You might not really need an amplifier - Read on!)

If your cable modem is not operating properly, you might need amplification to fix your problems. However this is not always the case. Before installing an amplifier, you should make sure that your cable modem has a clear path for communication. VERY IMPORTANT: If at all possible, you should not have any splitters on the same line as your cable modem. Splitters decrease the signal and make it more difficult for the cable modem to communicate. 

The best way to deal with this type of situation is to install a two-way splitter at the cable source. One leg of the splitter should run directly to your cable modem in order to provide the best path for communication. The other leg of the splitter should be used to feed the TVs and cable boxes in your home. The diagram for this is shown above in SETUP #1 or SETUP #2, depending on whether you have Digital Cable or not.

If connecting your cable modem as directed here fixes your cable modem problem, then GREAT! All you need to do is follow the directions in the section above (I have a cable modem, and it works just fine) to determine the best amplifier for your situation.

If the above suggestions do not resolve your cable modem problems, then an amplifier will likely help. The best strategy for this scenario is to do one of three things: 
OPTION 1. Connect a 1-port amplifier into your cable line at the cable source. This is the simplest way to boost the signal for your entire home. Install the amplifier before any splitters or cable equipment. The amplifier will provide a boost for both the TVs and the cable modem.

Compatible amplifiers:  Electroline EDA-2100

OPTION 2. Connect a 2-port amplifier in place of the splitter provided by the cable company. Connect one output of the amplifier to the cable modem, and the other output to all of the TVs/VCRs/Cable Boxes in your home. The amplifier will provide a boost for both the TVs and the cable modem.

Compatible amplifiers:  Electroline EDA-2200

OPTION 3. Connect a 4 or 8-port "Active Return Path" TTTTTTamplifier into your cable line at the cable source. Run all of your cables, including the cable modem, to the amplifier.

Compatible amplifiers:  Electroline FT081000 "Active Return Path" 8-Port PDI "Active Return Path" 4-port PDI "Active Return Path" 8-port

SETUP #4

I do not have a cable modem. I have one or more Digital Cable Converter boxes installed in my home.

Which amplifier? Choose the amplifier that most closely matches the number of cables you need to connect. If you have 3-4 cables, choose a 4-port. If you have 5 or more cables, go with an 8-port. It is always better to have the cable amplifier act as your splitter than it is to use a splitter in addition to the amplifier. The key thing here is that if you have Digital Cable Converters in use, you need to use one of the higher-end bi-directional amplifiers. 

There are situations where you might make a different selection. The simplest way to boost your entire home signal is to connect a 1-port amplifier into your cable line at the cable source. Install the amplifier before any splitters or cable equipment. As long as there is no cable modem involved, the choice is mostly up to you.

IMPORTANT: Keep your signal split as evenly as possible.

Compatible "Standard" amplifiers:  EDA-1G, EDA-2G, EDA-4G, EDA-8G.
Digital Compatible amplifiers:  EDA-2100, EDA-2200, EDA-2400, EDA-2800, EDA-FlatTop,
Electroline FT081000 "Active Return Path", PDI "Active Return Path" 4 or 8-port.

SETUP #5

I do not have a cable modem. I do not have Digital Cable.

Which amplifier? Choose the amplifier that most closely matches the number of cables you need to connect. If you have 3-4 cables, choose a 4-port. If you have 5 or more cables, go with an 8-port. It is always better to have the cable amplifier act as your splitter than it is to use a splitter in addition to the amplifier. Since you do not have Digital Cable or a cable modem, you have the biggest selection of amplifiers available. 

There are situations where you might make a different selection. The simplest way to boost your entire home signal is to connect a 1-port amplifier into your cable line at the cable source. Install the amplifier before any splitters or cable equipment. As long as there is no cable modem involved, the choice is mostly up to you.

IMPORTANT: Keep your signal split as evenly as possible.

Compatible "Standard" amplifiers:  EDA-1G, EDA-2G, EDA-4G, EDA-8G.
Compatible "Pro" amplifiers:  EDA-2100, EDA-2200, EDA-2400, EDA-2800, EDA-FlatTop, Electroline FT081000 "Active Return Path", PDI "Active Return Path" 4 or 8-port.

SETUP #6

I need to run a cable that is longer than 150'.

Which amplifier? Long cable runs require an amplifier that can compensate for problems that long cables cause. Long cable runs cause the higher frequency signals to degrade faster than the lower frequencies. The result is that some channels will look fine, while other channels may be weak or snowy. An equalizing amplifier compensates for long cable runs by varying the amplification across the frequency spectrum. The result is a clear picture on all channels. 

Compatible "Pro" amplifiers:  EDA-EQ3100.

Basic troubleshooting

Q. I installed my new amplifier, but I have a couple of unused ports. Do I need to cap them?
A. Unused connections should be terminated with 75 ohm terminators. cableTVamps provides terminators with the purchase of 2, 4, and 8-port amplifiers. Terminators prevent signal "leakage" and "ingress" which can lead to ghosting and interference in the TV picture. Signal leakage may also get you a visit from your local cable company. Read more below.

Q. A month after installation, I got a visit from my cable company. They wanted me to turn off my amplifier. What did I do wrong?
A. First of all, RELAX. There is nothing illegal or improper about what you have done. However, when you pump up the signal strength in your home, You increase the "pressure" on your home cabling system. The cable company might become aware of this because the signal level is considerably higher than it was previously. Occasionally the installation of an amplifier will trigger a visit to your home by the local cable company. Usually this is caused by increased "signal leakage" which is caused when you boost your cable signal. Think of it as increasing the pressure in a water pipe. If there is a small hole, it will get more obvious as you increase the water pressure. The same principle applies here. Cable companies are required to measure "open air" signals which indicate cable signal leakage. As they drive through your neighborhood they may detect leakage from your home and stop in for a visit. This will RARELY happen if you follow the manufacturer's instructions, and the suggestions we provide in our information pages:

1.  If you have unused cable outlets connected to the amplifier make sure they are terminated. This is why cableTVamps provides terminators for free with most amplifier purchases. Most signal leakage problems are caused by unterminated connections which act like antennas. They broadcast the cable signal out into the open air. The cable company is required by law to detect these signals and keep them within government regulations. If you cap unused amplifier ports and cable outlets, you virtually eliminate any signal leakage caused by them.
2.  Use high quality cables and connectors - they make a difference. Low quality (cheap) cables cannot hold the signal in as well as good quality dual or quad shielded cable. Think of it in terms of using plastic pipe versus steel pipe. The steel pipe (well shielded cable) can hold back pressure a lot better than plastic pipe can, and won't break nearly as easily. Never use cheap "screw-on" connectors, or any other cable connector that does not give a good, positive connection. Cheap connectors are like bad pipe fittings - they will eventually cause you problems. If you use high quality cabling and connectors you should not have any leakage problems.

Q. I installed my new amplifier, but the picture has not improved. What is wrong?
A. Sometimes the cable amplifier gets installed in a "non-optimal" location. Whenever possible, the amplifier should be installed as close as possible to the point of entry where the cable comes into the house. The goal of using an amplifier is to prevent signal degradation before it occurs. If you install the amplifier behind your TV set, after the cable has been split and run long distances inside your home, the signal is already degraded. When you install the amplifier, the output signal can only be as good as the INPUT signal. What this means is that if you have a crummy signal going in, you will have a crummy signal coming out.   

1. If your picture has not improved, make sure the amplifier is connected at a point close to the incoming cable line BEFORE the cable gets split OR just after the split for your cable modem. The actual scenario depends on what type of amplifier you are using, and whether you have a cable modem.

2. Check your incoming cable signal. Disconnect the input from the amplifier and connect it directly to a TV. Do you have a good picture? If not, then you need to fix the problem (call the cable company or fix your wiring) before thinking the amplifier is faulty.

Q. I installed my new amplifier, but now the picture looks worse. What did I do wrong?
A. There are a couple of things that could be wrong. 

1. Check to make sure that you have power to the amplifier. The green light on the front of the amplifier should be lit. If not, check your power supply and power cable. Verify that the center wire of the power cable is not bent or missing. Make sure you have the power cable securely connected to the PWR connection on the amplifier. Always connect all of the cables THEN plug the power supply into the outlet.

   1. The power supply should get warm within 15 minutes of plugging it in. If it is not warm, it is possible that it is defective.

   2. The power cable may be faulty. Try connecting a different cable between the power supply and the amplifier.

   3. The cable from the power supply to the amplifier must be less than 100' in length.

2. Check the other connections into and out of the amplifier. Take a look at each connector attached to the cable (see picture below). If the center wire of the cable does not extend 1/16" beyond the end of the connector, it may not be making good contact with the amplifier ports. If necessary, install a new connector and make sure the center wire extends a bit beyond the end of the connector.

3. If the above steps do not resolve the problem, re-connect everything as it was before you installed the amplifier. If everything works OK, you may have a defective amplifier. This is very rare, but it does happen occasionally.

Q. I installed my new amplifier. The picture looks better, but I still see ghosts and/or snow. It is not as good as I expected. What's going on?
A. There are many reasons that an amplifier may not fix your cable problems. Usually these reasons are related to existing cabling problems in your home. Here are the most common areas to check to resolve your cabling problems.

1. Bad Connectors
   Bad connectors are at the top of the list for problems. Check all of your connections to make sure the connectors are in good condition. Always use good quality crimp-on style connectors, not the screw-on style. Screw-on connectors are always subject to unscrewing, coming loose, and in general not providing a strong connection. When inspecting the connectors, be sure that they are clean, that there is no loose wire or insulation inside the connector, and that the center wire extends approximately 1/16" beyond the end of the connector. If the center wire is not long enough it may not make a good connection and cause a snowy picture. If a connector looks questionable it is better to replace it.
   

2. Cheap Splitters
   The splitters you use in your cable connections can make a big difference in the quality of your cable signal. If you buy the cheap $2.99 splitters at the local electronics or home improvement store you are likely to add to the problems with your cable signal. Cheap splitters are made from wires and ferrite cores, sealed in what appears to be a sturdy metal housing. Because they are constructed so cheaply, they will actually add ghosts and snow to your picture especially if your signal is not very strong at the splitter input. They are also very susceptible to interference from outside sources like electrical equipment. 
   High quality splitters are constructed from circuit boards and high quality components, which makes them less susceptible to interference, ghosting, and other problems. You can generally tell the difference between splitters by their frequency rating. If a splitter is rated only to 900MHz, STAY AWAY! High quality splitters are rated for 1000 MHz. The splitter should have this information stamped or printed right on the splitter itself.
   

3. Too many splitters - poor layout
   Even good quality splitters can't keep you from making mistakes. Connecting one splitter to another splitter, to a third splitter is a bad idea. Each time you use a splitter you cut your cable signal by more than half - even if it is only a 2-way splitter. If you have a single cable line that you keep splitting throughout your house, the TVs at the end of the line are always going to suffer. When setting up the cabling for your TVs, be sure to run as many connections as you can directly back to the first splitter or amplifier. The more connections you have the more important this becomes. Do not use multiple splitters unless it is absolutely necessary.
   Another rule for good cabling - keep your cables split as evenly as possible. Every time you use a splitter, you should make sure that the number of TVs or other equipment connected to each port is the same. One port should not supply 5 TVs while the other port supplies only one TV. Keep those devices split as evenly as possible across your splitter ports.
    

4. Unterminated connections
   Any cable connected to your cabling system via splitter or amplifier must be terminated if it is not connected to something. Open cable connections can cause a bunch of problems - mostly ghosting. As a rule you should install 75 ohm terminators on any amplifier or splitter connection that is unused. you should also terminate any outlets or cables which are not connected to a TV or other device.

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